“Oh.........so that’s......the price per person........ah ha.............” It was about 9:45 at night when we finally arrived at the pousada (the kind of place that occupies the universal real estate between a hotel and a hostel) we made reservations at. Os cadets Americanos had decided to drive off on our own for the weekend (sem cadets Brasileiros) and get a little experience rolling on our own. It was going famously (read: terribly. Google maps said Paraty, a small historical beach town was about an hour and a half by car away from Resende. 9 and a half bus hours later we rang the doorbell at Pousada Guarana) until we arrived at the pousada; a member of our group had stayed there before when the academy took a trip to Brasil in April and due to some misleading information on their website, it looked like we needed to pay about 3 times as much for our weekend stay. We explained that we really didn’t have it in our budget to stay there. They were extremely helpful in helping us find other accommodations and we were able to get through to a nearby hostel that had a triple room available for the weekend at what I can only describe as a fraction of the cost. Solid.
Open your eyes. Where are you? You’re on a sail boat. In the middle of the bay of Paraty. How did you get here? 20 Reals (or $14 U.S.) What are you doing there? Eating fresh pineapple. And drinking beer. Because they go together. Like pineapple and beer. How did you get here? You woke up at 8:37 after a glorious night of deep sleep and happy dreams on a king size bed. Better yet, you woke up on your own. No blaring alarm clock, no reveille, no other cadets furiously rubbing sleep from their eyes, blinking hard and forcing themselves out of stupor, carelessly shaving, and kicking shoes through their uniform trousers (side note, I asked why all the Brazilian cadets put their shoes on before their pants and one of the cadets who speaks better English than most responded. And I quote, “A man with shoes is never late. Because you cannot run and do your shoes. But you can run as you put on pants.” Yes. Please) Coming back to sweet sweet reality, you walk out your door to the patio. Because there is one. Outside your door. On that patio is a whole mess of chairs and tables, not to mention a great big pile of Wifi, and a large table full of breakfast, both covered in liberal amounts of free. Don’t mind if I do.
After stuffing your face with fresh baked bread, banana cake (@Haters, it’s fruit, totally good for breakfast), and a whole mess of fruit (which Brazil is FULL of. Winning) you decide that it’s time to take a walk around the historic town and see what you can see. You and your buddies suit up (khaki shorts, t shirts, and sunglasses are the uniform of the day. As-for-not-at-class-at-West-Point-on-a-Friday) You nearly break your ankle on 17 separate occassions on the old cobblestone street, and dodge a horse drawn carriage as you jump into a bookstore, only to jump out after realizing you can’t speak OR read Portuguese. Good one. You continue further on your journey, using the random pattern of stones in the street as your map and the sun as your compass. Soon, the buildings begin to lean away from each other and your shoes scrape the smooth stones with sand as the sun peers down from the open sky above. You’ve discovered the beach.
The beach sand is thick and full of shells as you make your way over to what was clearly the dock from Pirates of the Carribean, full of sailboats and a number a wooden craft ranging from wildly painted row boats to double masted sea swans complete with ornately carved bows. Men waved their arms from the rear of the boats (aft? stern? Not even gonna try) beckoning you to board their vessel. Between all the rapid Portuguese, you gather that it’s only 20 reals to get on the boat for the afternoon. Ah ha. That sounds like a plan. Oh wait, it’s leaving now? But hang on, what about all that stuff I have to clear from my sched………oh…….right.
Blink. Where are you? Right, the bay. And the boat. And the live music. And the pineapple. And the beer. Now you remember. What’s that? Oh we’re stopping soon? That’s fine. This gigantic patch of sunny water we were drifting comfortably through was getting pretty boring anyway, we should find some sunny sand to hang out on for a bit. The boat pulls towards the shore and the anchor (gigantic, totally reminiscent of Pirates) is dropped. The deck hands/waiters begin lowering the small dinghy that can take you to shore but you notice that the boat is surrounded by crystal clear water and it’s only a short ways towards shore. You leap into the air, landing a perfect swan dive on the blue abyss and enjoying the thought that the entire boat is probably watching your scantily clad (read: sungas are awesome) rear end disappear into the water. It’s cool, but not cold. Because this is winter. Which means you might wear pants once or twice a week. And the water is always swimmable. Lovely.
You emerge, dripping, on the secluded beach. Well, it was secluded. Now it’s yours. You settle into the sand to work on your tan. Because that’s what the sun and small bathing suits are for. You doze into a quiet slumber and 20 minutes later arise, completely on your own and entirely refreshed. Hooray. Oh, a giant foghorn. The boat is preparing to head to the next beach. Just as you woke up. Quite convenient. You paddle back to the boat and resist the urge to leap into the clear blue water again…….only for a moment, and cannonball back in. Because there’s always time for one more. You clamber back aboard the ship and curl up on what can only be described as a gigantic napping surface (envision a large rectangle raised off the deck covered with soft mats and pillows) with your towel and continue your nap as a man sings softly and strums the guitar. Everything swirls a bit and goes pleasantly and warmly dark.
You open your eyes. Your shoulder is being tapped ever so lightly. What’s that? Oh, it’s a big steaming plate of lunch. Turns out, you’re having stroganoff. Which in Portuguese is estroganofe. You’re having it because you ordered it when you got on the boat 2 hours ago and the small team working in the below deck kitchen whipped it up for you. And your in Brazil, so it comes with rice and beans. What’s good, Brazil. The boat idles in the water as you eat lunch on a glass plate with metal silverware. You hadn’t really noticed until now but the views on the water are absolutely spectacular. The clear water, the blue skies, the islands dotting the bay, the small houses and rural looking neighborhoods sprawled across the hills, the quiet beaches, the thick forests along the coast. If only you had a way to take all these visions and memories and share them with……..oh, perfect, a digital camera. Snap snap. Now you can load them up on Facebook. Winning.
The boat begins to move forward and you begin to take some sun out on the deck while the boat leisurely slides across the bay. You begin a pattern of alternating between tanning and napping (most doing large quantities of both simultaneously) as the boat rolls along. At some point someone comes around with a carafe and tiny plastic cups and offers you cafezinha (in order to facilitate their level of going hard in the paint all day every day, Brazilians recharge in the afternoon with a tiny cup or two of strong coffee) Not being much of a coffee drinker but being a big fan of cultural immersion, you pour yourself some and WOW that is some strong stuff right there. Opah (pronounced, “Oh-pah” occasionally with a drawn out, “paaaaaaah” and used in Brazil to denote something interesting or surprising. Similar to, “Wow”)
The afternoon has begun to fall and the sun starts to dip, retreating towards the hills as you sip strong coffee and smell the sea breeze. You’re standing at the bow and watching other boats retreat towards the coast, passing the small islands that inhabit the bay. Tranquility………….
On that note, it was a killer weekend away but we’re back to the grind (mellow Monday) Hope everyone had a blast this weekend and that my friends at West Point didn’t have to swim to class. Happy incoming Labor Day!
Tchau!